2007/8/14

lucky fall

"You must pay a special attention when climber is gonna clip second quickdraw." A friend taught me how to belay a leading climber last year.

"If he fell at second quickdraw without clipping it, he probably will hit ground." The last weekend of July, as usual, we went climbing in Long Lane in LongDong. I was tring a route of 5.11a which was my second try in that day and I've redpointed it couples of weeks before. The crux is only at one move, you must insert your two fingers into a small hole, try to find a balance position and stand up to reach the next friendly hold.

I fell at the second quickdraw which is the most unlikely location to fall because you have a couple of huge holds there, and I hadn't clipped the second quickdraw. At the moment I yelled and thought: "it's over", I knew how serious it is: only at small height and only one protection below my feet, "I'm gonna crash the ground".

Really fortunately, just 5 or 6 cm to ground, I was stopped by my belayer, my wife, tracy. Only few grazes left on my leg, and of course, panic in my mind and other climbers there.



←second quickdraw with rope in it